Muscat
Muscat combines the charms of an old world Arab enclave with the amenities of a fast paced metropolis. Nestled between the turquoise blue waters of Gulf of Oman and the rugged mountains of AI Hajr Al Sharyi, here you will find a harmonious blend of traditional culture, cuisine, arts and architecture with the unbridled energy of modern life. No doubt, Muscat embodies the finest of the Middle East. Winter is the best time to visit Muscat. It sprinkles the city with a myraid of colours. Flowers and green plants pop up from nowhere painting the alleys and parks with a variety of colours. It is as though the spring has descended on the city sprinkling her floral possessions all around. It is nothing short of a
lifetime’s delight to drive around the city in the winter months. There is no parallel to the scientifically constructed network of roads and artistically designed roundabouts and the structures that greet the visitor as he traverses across the city. On their way out of airport visitors
will be greeted by artificial water cascade right across the airport, the Date Palm lined pavements of Al Azaiba, the colourful sculptures and figurines that dot the way, the shining domes of the mosques and the roundabout in Wadi Kabir. There is much more that pleases the eyes and
fills the soul of a sightseer. The low lying buildings which are mostly painted in white and light colours merge beautifully with the pristine surroundings. A perennial serenity prevails in the city. After getting acquainted with the capital of Oman plan your trips to explore the interiors.
Al Jalali and Al Mirani Forts
The forts of Al Jalali and Al Mirani which stand as sentinels at the entrance to Muscat bay are the city’s prominent landmarks built in 16 th century AD. Mirani, originally shaped like a tower was built before the arrival of the Portuguese. The Portuguese rebuilt it on the ruins of its old structure in 1588. The building was enlarged to its present size during the reign of Imam Ahmed bin Said, the founder of the Al Busaidi state in the 18th century, and his grandson Sayyid Said bin Sultan, at the beginning of the 19th century. The construction of Jalali Fort was completed by the Portuguese in 1587. It is rebuilt to its present structure during the reign of Sayyid Said bin Sultan, and this Fort was restored and converted into a museum in the reign of His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said.
Al Alam Palace
The beautifully grandiose Al Alam Palace is the ceremonial palace of His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said .Built in 1972 it has a fairytale facade of towering gold and blue pillars wrapped in wrought iron and edged in green. Visitors can approach it on foot via the Kebir Gate in the old city walls for best views. Though they are not allowed inside even the outside is impressive. Al Alam Palace is surrounded by the Mirani and Jalali Forts built in the 16th century by the Portuguese.
Parks and gardens
The parks and gardens in Muscat infuse life into the city that it is carved out of an arid and rocky landscape. It is as though the desert and mountains have bowed out to make way for the verdant magnificence.
Apart from the floral beds and greenery that line the city roads, the parks and gardens give the city a dab of lushness. Qurum Natural Park opened in 1993 is the largest park in Muscat. It has a large boating lake, a fountain, waterfall hill and Sultan Qaboos’ Rose Garden as main attractions. The design exploits the nature and topography and creates a wonderful ambience to the visitors. Riyam and Kalbou parks are the most popular evening spots in the city. Overlooking the sea, they not only impress the visitors with their location, but also with their design and purpose. Riyam park provides a stunning view of harbour and sea cliffs. Here one can go on the numerous rides that rock the park in the evenings. While in Kalbou take a stroll or dip a line to catch fish. The sprawling Al Naseem Park, some 30 km away from the airport, the Quriyat Lake Park and the Rose garden in Qurum are also among the favourite picnic spots in and around Muscat. If you are interested to learn about the rich heritage of the Sultanate, drop into the four main museums in the city, which include the Omani-French Museum, Bait Al Zubair and and Bait Al Baranda.
Omani French Museum
The Omani-French museum operated by the Ministry of Heritage and Culture at Qasr Al Alam Street in old Muscat depicts the art and culture of France and the traditional connection of the Sultanate with the French people. The museum was initially the residence of French Consul and was known as Bait Faransa which means house of France. It was presented as a gift by the Sultan Faisal bin Turki to the first French Consul in Muscat in 1896. It was opened on 29th January 1992 by His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said and the late French President François Mitterrand. The museum displays furniture, clothes and photographs of the early French diplomats, and contains historical documents, and modles of Omani – French ships in addition to Omani and French costumes and jewellery.
Bait al Zubair Museum
The museum has one of the largest and finest private collections in Oman accumulated by the Al Zubair family. It displays over 5,000 specially selected or inherited pieces that reflect Oman’s rich cultural heritage and identity representing different periods of time. The collection includes customary Omani weaponry, jewellery, costume, household utensils and furniture, early European maps and prints of the Arabian Peninsula and East Africa, early photographs, satellite images, coins, stamps, musical instruments, documents, manuscripts and books. The
Museum also features traditional Omani architecture, a falaj and traditional fishing vessels.
Bait Al Baranda Visitors’ House
The Bait Al Baranda visitors’ house is window to the past of Oman. The history of Oman from the time of formation of the landmass, the progress of human civilization to the achievements of modern Oman is portrayed here. Models of ancient cave houses, relics and detailed information on different ages are displayed here. The other important museums in the city include Museum of Omani Heritage located at Al
Alam Street and operated by the ministry of heritage and culture, The National Museum near Al Fallaj hotel Ruwi and the Children’s Museum at Shatti Al Qurum near the Qurum Natural Park
Beaches
If beaches are your passion, then Muscat has some of the cleanest and most serene beaches in the world where you could relax after a busy schedule. Facilities for water sports including skiing, aqua biking and kayaking are available at some of the resorts. For the adventurous types
there are a large number of Scuba diving centres in Muscat. While some of these beaches are within city limits, others are at some distance, but given the special attributes of these beaches, it is worth all your time to go there. The Aviation Beach in Al Azaiba and the Qurum beach are the closest from the city centre and they make excellent picnic and barbeque spots. If you happen to be at Qurum beach during a low tide and you are a beach stroller, then take a four km walk towards the stylish embassy area of Shati Al Qurum. Driving away from the city,
climbing and descending mountain roads, you reach the Bandar Jissah and Qantab beaches. Near Qantab is a fishing village and once you hit the beach, local fishermen would offer to take you fishing in the immaculate waters. Bandar Jissah is a rocky coastline and those with a penchant for small time adventure can climb the rocks at the foot of the cliffs when the tide is low. A little beyond this place is the Oman Dive Centre from where you can go on diving excursions or take your first lessons in under water exploits. Talking about beaches, one cannot ignore the coast beyond Qurriyat. Of the beaches that nestle between rocky outcrops, Mokallah captures prominence. A night out on the shore is what you can plan if you have this White Beach in your agenda. Head southeast from Muscat with your camping paraphernalia for a night under the sky. It would be the best way to unwind after a whirlwind tour of the capital. The Sawadi Beach which stretches past the Wilayat of Barka is one of the places where you can bring your spirit of adventure and love for leisure together. The Sawadi beach is strewn with seashells of unimaginable variety. You can take a boat ride around the little rocky islets sitting pretty at short distances from the shore. While you steer through, don’t miss to catch a glimpse of the coral reefs and the schools of fish in the shallow, gleaming waters. If the tide is low, you can wade across to the fort atop the cliff in the sea and behold the blue green expanse beyond. After this, get set for some brisk adventure. Ocean Extreme is a diving center attached to the Al Sawadi Resort close to the beach and it facilitates a wide range of water sports. If your craving for adventure is still not satiated, then go for the big one. Dimaniyat Islands Natural Reserve lies about 18 km from the coast and it is a fascinating world of marine and avian life. It is also one of the best dive centers in Oman. Since it is an area protected by law, it is mandatory to seek permission from the Ministry of Regional Municipalities and Environment before embarking on the trip.
Muttrah Harbour and fish market
Muttrah Harbour and fish market near Muttrah Corniche is one of the interesting sites that tourist love to stop by and watch the live activity of fishing boats coming home with their catch and fishermen selling their fresh catch. Muttrah Harbour is a circular, deep water, natural anchorage, where tankers, barges, ferries and cruise ships mingle with traditional Arab dhows. From early morning till 10 am each day the harbour is home to a bustling fish market where visitors can see, hear and smell the catch of the day from the rich marine life of the Arabian
Sea being unloaded and sold. You can see different types of boats and ships bringing loads of catch, with the birds flying around the sea side producing their beautiful voice. In side the market there is a vast selection of ocean-fresh fish, squid and crab to choose from. There are special areas where the cutting of the fish is done. The variety of different type of fishes in Oman sea gives an idea how Omani sea is rich of marine life.
Shop in the Souq
The Souq (market) in Muttrah is a landmark which any discerning tourist can ill afford to miss. Typical Omani souvenirs that range from the Khanjar (the curved dagger), and silver jewellery to spices, frankincense garments and household items are available here. Bargaining is the norm. Apart from the unique shopping experience, what will enchant you are the ambience and the structure of the Souq that reflect distinctive
Arabic tradition. The tall arch that frames the entrance and the canopied roof made of palm fronds takes to a time and place from the Arabian Nights. For a leisurely shopping stroll, it is best to visit the Souq in the mornings or late afternoons when the crowd is minimal. The place gets busy after six in the evening.
Horseback Riding
When you come to Arabia, you can’t miss the allure of the Arabian riding stallion. And if you like riding, Oman has trails and the horses to take you there. You’ll find the Royal Stables in Seeb a good spot to observe equestrian events staged for public and private gatherings. And if you go to the Al Kamil/Al Wafi region of the country, you can find the best breeders and trainers the country has to offer.
HORSE RIDING CENTRES
Al-Sawahil Horse Riding
Phone Number:+968 95 177557
Email:ahmad-565@hotmail.com
Al Fursan Stable
Phone Number:+968 99386978
Sailing and Boating
What’s your pleasure? A sporty sloop or graceful catamaran. A convivial yacht or speedy see-doo. How about a carefree course on a stately dhow. Game fishing. Dolphin and Whale watching. Boogie boards and banana boats. And diving, diving, diving. All of the above is available if you know where to look and the best ones are right here.
Cruises in Oman are an inseparable part of its history. Oman is surrounded by the sea and Omanis are famous for their love of their azure waters. Some villages in Oman, like Kumzar village in the far north, can only be reached by boat.
Cruises abound from many beaches and cities, and there are specialised centres such as: Marina Bandar Al Rawda in Muscat Governorate. Many tour operators organise a variety of activities, whether it is watching dolphins or sailing. These tours are not limited to the capital Muscat, as both Musandam and the city of Sur in A’Sharqiyah South Governorate (Eastern Region) are famous for their marine trips. There is barely a beach in Oman that does not organise such trips.
Oman Sail HQ
Address:Al Mauj St, Muscat, Oman
Tel:+968 24181400
Website:www.omansail.com
Al Mouj Marina
Address:P.O. Box 87, PC 138 Seeb, Muscat, Sultanate of Oman.
Tel:+968 2453 4544 Fax: +968 2453 4401
Email:info@almoujmarina.com
Website:www.almoujmarina.com
Turtle Watching
The beaches of Ras Al Had ,Ras Al Junayz and Masirah island are just some of the areas where several species of marine turtles come to lay their eggs. Green turtles, loggerheads, Hawksbill and leatherbacks live for over 100 years and swim the length and breadth of the Indian Ocean only to return every year to the same sites to lay their eggs. Many tour operators and hotels in Sur offer turtle visitation packages. It is necessary to acquire a permit to visit the official nesting sites as the turtles are protected as endangered species.
Thousands of sea turtles migrate annually from the shores of the Arabian Gulf, the Red Sea and Somalia to lay their eggs on the Sultanate’s shores. Oman has five of the seven species of sea turtles. They are: The Green Turtle, found on most Omani beaches and plentiful in Ras Al Hadd, Ras Al Jinz, Masirah Island and Ad Daymaniyat Islands; the Loggerhead Turtle that nests on Masirah Island, the shores of Dhofar and Ad Daymaniyat Islands; the Hawksbill Turtle that nests on the shores of Muscat and Ad Daymaniyat Islands; the Olive Ridley Turtle that nests on Masirah Island; and the Leatherback Turtle which is found in Omani waters but does not nest in the Sultanate.
At night, these turtles carrying their heavy shells on their backs, drag themselves out of the water to the beach, and strenuously and with great difficulty, dig a hole in the sand using the tips of their paws so as to bury their eggs and then return to the sea. After about 55 days, the eggs hatch and baby turtles come out to start the most dangerous journey of their lives, trying to avoid hungry foxes, crabs and birds and push their way towards the sea where they can find safety in the waters. Watching the turtles’ night dash to the sea is among the most popular tourist activities.
TURTLE WATCHING CENTRES
Nomad Tours
Address:Nomad Tours LLC
PO Box 583, Muscat Oman
Phone Number:00-968-95495240 / 1 / 2
Email:nomads@nomadtours.com
Website:nomadtours.com
Game Fishing
Game fishing is now becoming very popular in Oman as would be anglers try their hand at bagging the big one. Species such as marlin and tuna are highly sought. The sport is affordable and Omani waters are abundant in the bait fish that attracts larger predators. The coasts off Sur and Masirah are especially suited for this unique sport.
GAME FISHING CENTRES
Jassa Beach Sea Tours
Address:Beach Front, CAPITAL AREA YACHT CLUB
Muscat, Oman
Phone Number:+968-9700-8999
Email:accounts@jassabeach.com
Website:www.jassabeach.com
Ocean Blue International LLC
Address:Barr Al Jissah, Muscat 113, Oman
Phone Number:+968 9612 5081
Website:www.oceanblueoman.com
Bull Fighting
Bullfighting is a traditional Omani spectacle, passed down through the generations, taking place almost every other Friday in various places around the country, and I opted for the closest venue to Muscat – Barka.
Bullfighting, or bull butting Omani-style is a far cry from the Spanish equivalent. There aren’t any matadors and the Omani version is bloodless with little or no injury to the bulls. The battle comes to an end when one of the heavyweights backs down and flees the fight.
These bullfights are often impromptu and not advertised, so finding the exact location can be a challenge if you’re not in the know. Arriving at the site in Barka in the morning, I found a small dusty ring with sporadic concrete seating and no one else in sight. It turned out that I was way too early. The crowds started arriving in the afternoon, some bringing their own camping chairs to sit and watch the action.
As the owners were busy preparing their bulls for the fight, I turned my lens on the spectators. I was struck by a young local boy wearing a crisp white dishdasha with a pair of Aviator-style sunglasses that were slightly too large for his face, making him look like an Omani urban cowboy.
He had nerves of steel. He stood right next to one of the bulls as calm as you like, showing not the slightest fear of the powerful beast next to him who could have killed him with his giant horns or huge hooves. Brahmin bulls used in fighting can weigh up to 1,100kg and are rippling with muscles, so you can imagine the result of being trampled by one.
It turned out that the bull was owned by the youngster’s father, which perhaps explains why the boy and beast were so comfortable in each other’s company, having grown up together. Some of the fighting bulls are pampered family pets.
Dozens of fights take place throughout the day. Each one only lasts a couple of minutes, but there’s a great deal of pride at stake for the owners. The losing bull and his owner usually go home with a bruised ego.
Watching two powerful animals lock horns in a standoff of strength is an exhilarating experience. Such a show of physical power gets your own adrenaline flowing.
Meanwhile, a master of ceremonies was pacing the arena commentating on proceedings and cracking the occasional joke, keeping everyone entertained.
When the fight is on, handlers stand close by to supervise and keep the bulls under close supervision with a rope round one of the animal’s legs to ensure that they can’t break loose and run into the crowd. The system is not foolproof and occasionally the bulls are able to escape.
If you want an authentic Omani experience, book your seat at the next Barka bullfight.
HOW TO GET THERE
From Muscat, take the road to Barka. At the main roundabout in Barka, turn right towards the fort (it should be signposted) and follow the single road until it ends. Take a left and drive straight. Keep following the road and you’ll see the bullring. It’s best arrive around 2pm in the winter time. There’s no charge to watch.
GPS location of the arena: N23º 42’ 46.619” E57º 51’ 25.846”
Camel Racing
Camel racing is an exciting sport where camels and their owners congregate at racetracks around the country. Racing camels are bred for the track and are highly prized posessions. A good racing camel can fetch a price of RO 30,000 (US $ 77,400). Jockeys are drafted for their size (or lack thereof) and some make their professional debuts around five years old. Crowd enthusiasm is high on these occasions. However, raceday is not announced long in advance, so it is best to know someone who has an inside track as to when a race is scheduled.
This is a popular sport where camels compete at speeds of up to 64 kilometres per hour on tracks specially built for this kind of race. Races take place regularly. Camels, the “ships of the desert,” have played a vital role in the region over thousands of years. Camels have impacted all aspects of daily desert life. Besides being a means of travel, food and shelter, camels are also used for entertaining, celebrating and competing in festivals and special events.
The sport is greatly similar to horse racing. Camel racing is an authentic Arab sport, famous especially among the Arabian Peninsula Arabs. Camel racing has evolved into an official and professional race that includes race tracks, specialised farms for raising camels and running intensive training programmes, as well as using new technologies.
Trekking
Oman is an amazing place for exploration and discovery, especially by foot in its spectacular mountain scenery. The country is the best kept tourism secret of the Gulf region, if not the entire Middle East, having striking scenery, friendly people and year-round sunshine. “Adventure Trekking in Oman” by Anne Dale & Jerry Hadwind introduces the uninitiated and curious to the myriad pathways and fabulous staircases criss-crossing the country’s fascinating mountains. There, the climate is almost perfect for walking and provides relief from the hot plains and coastal area.
The trekking season is generally from September to May, but the best period is October to April. Above 1,900 meter altitude trekking is possible all year round. The countryside is mostly rugged and the trails are loose, but trekking is by far the best way to enjoy Oman’s spectacular mountain-landscape.
Different types of trips with varying degrees of difficulty can be done; from the easy start in the Capital Area to the stunning Rim Walk in the Grand Canyon of Jabal Shams.
If you are inexperienced in hiking/trekking please contact someone with experience before you set off: In Muscat and Interior, there are a few local touroperators which can provide a fully organised trek, complete with Donkey-porters, guide, necessary equipment and transport to and from the starting and finishing points. They also provide participants with a choice of itineraries.
Now for the first time in Oman, trekking routes have been marked and signposted which can be easily recognised by the brown coloured signboards pointing to the beginning of the marked treks.
Rock Climbing
Rugged mountains, rising to 3,000 meters, amongst a maze of spurs and wadis, deep canyons and towering cliffs. Getting onto the mountain in a four-wheel drive is easy. For the rock climber, every mountain face presents an enigmatic challenge. For specific information there is a book available from Apex Publishing (Tel. 24799388) entitled “Rock Climbing in Oman” is available at most book stores and shopping centres.
OMAN IS A MOUNTAINOUS NATION, and since the mid 1980s pioneering rock climbers have been slowly exploring the rugged interior. Rock Climbing in Oman, by R.A. McDonald (check the book stores in Muscat), is an in-depth overview, but here are a few of the highlights I put together with long-time fellow expat in Oman, Paul Auerbach — a self-described climbing rat and freelance geologist.
This list was put together assuming you’ll be using the capital, Muscat, as your base for exploration.
The Wall
The Wall is the sultanate’s only indoor rock gym, and should be your first stop when you hit the ground in Oman. This is the place to size up the climbing scene, snag topos for the local routes around Muscat, score some trad climbing gear, hire a local guide, or meet up with other self-described climbing rats.
Tuesdays and Sundays from 6-8pm are the best times to introduce yourself to the locals socializing and hanging out in the bouldering cave. The cost is just 1 OMR (about $2.60) per hour.
5 O’Clock Rock
Just a five-minute drive up the vertiginous Al Amerat Road towards Wadi Adai you’ll find a slab of limestone known as 5 O’Clock Rock. It’s a five-minute walk from the road, but if you’ve got a 4×4 and don’t feel like muleing your gear up to the crag yourself, you can drive right up to the base of these four sport routes, which are equipped with 10mm expansion bolts.
There’s K Rations (5c, 10m, 4 bolts); K-Pax (6b, 15m, 7 bolts); Special K (6b+, 15m, 8 bolts); and KK Lite (6b, 15m, 7 bolts). For the full topos on all four routes, click the link above.
On a side note, R.A. McDonald named each route for a 1960s African dance called the Kwassa Kwassa, because a little jiggle is required — just like in the dance — to make it up the roof on this climb.
Qantab (aka Bandar Al Jissah)
There’s nothing like a little Deep Water Soloing (DWS) — the new vogue in high-level sport climbing — for uniting mountain, sea, and man as one. Qantab reminds me of downsized versions of the sea-cliffs off southern Thailand and eastern Spain, and always leaves me pumped, frustrated, and asking for more.
The overhang and traverse to the right of the beach is a very public place to get warmed up for the rest of the crags around the cove. If you show up on a Friday afternoon expect a vociferous audience of Indian families, local Omani kids, and sombre packs of hand-holding Pakistani men, all just waiting for you to fall into the warm waters of the Indian Ocean below.
After you’ve taken the plunge once or twice from the heights of this fun overhang, hire a fishing boat to tool you around to the other nine spots. But stay away from cliffs facing out into the open sea, as these crags are reserved for the very territorial red bees / hornets that practice their own version of “locals only.”
Khubrah Canyon (aka “Secret Canyon”)
An hour from the traffic-jammed capital of Muscat you’ll realize just how sparsely populated Oman is. Aside from the occasional goat herder leading his flock back to the village, in Khubrah Canyon you’ll enjoy the solitude and fierce independence that comes from knowing that even though the helicopter rescue base is only around 150 kilometres away, it can still take them 10 hours to arrive. (Dial 9999 for emergencies.)
Nevertheless, Khubrah is the epitome of what makes climbing here so rad: boundless rock, beautiful weather (in the winter climbing season), and something for every skill level and taste. Note, however, that the climbs at the middle to lower reaches of canyons like Khubrah host the crux at the bottom of the climbs. Prepare to smear, crimp, and moan from the starting gate.
There are twenty equipped routes ranging in difficulty from 5b to 7a, unequipped crack climbs, bouldering near the entrance, and trad options for nut slotters — plenty of reasons to suffer the exquisite agony of a great climb.
Hadash
At 1500 meters above sea level, Hadash has cool mountain air, amazing views of Wadi Mistal, seclusion (it’s 1 km from the nearest village), lots of northerly shade, and good quality pre-Permian limestone rock.
There are a buttload of bolted sport climbs of varied difficulty at spots such as the Sulfureuse Crag, the Black Crag, the Wall with Roofs, and the Pit (a primo / bivouac picnicking spot).
Wadi Daykah
Just an hour and a half from Muscat is the killer Wadi Daykah. This canyon / dried-up river bed (which is basically what a wadi is) hosts three main crag areas and dozens of 30-60m bolted routes for all levels of climbing. (There are some higher routes in Hotel California, Upper Canyon.)
There’s heaps of potential for mapping out new routes and leaving your mark here. Hit the Lower Canyon after 2pm, where you’ll find more pockets than you’ll know what to do with, and softer-than-usual Omani rock textures. You should also check out Agathe Exit (6c) and its neighbours.
After a good session, go for a dip in Oman’s one and only lake, which is nearby at the recently finished dam. Take the Al Amirat Road over the mountains and follow the signs.
La Gorgette
Located deep in Wadi Bani Awf, this crag has the consistently steepest climbing in Oman’s sport climbing selection, with warm ups consisting of jugs and ledge-hopping to get your balance in check. Once you’ve tenderized your forearms, three stellar 6c’s rise 30m to the left before the canyon forks. (Take the left fork after a slippery scramble to try your nerves on the quite exposed Giraffe (6b+).) Don’t miss out on hang-doggin’ the 5-6 move crux of Encence Interdit (6b+), or Asolo Malequoum’s (7b), 20-degree off-vertical tufa cement pinches.
Photography and Filming
For serious and casual photographers there are photo opportunities galore — stark majestic mountain ranges, serene sandy beaches, lush green jungles — all within a wink of a shutter. Wildlife, rustic villages, majestic forts, colourful natives … there is inspiration everywhere. Best months for photography are November –April in the early morning or late afternoon. Use of a UV and polarizing filter is recommended.
Note: While photography is permited throughout the Sultanate, and there is beautiful scenery everywhere, photography of government and military installations is not permited. Likewise photographers should be very circumspect when it comes to photographing women. It is not advisable to take pictures of women without requesting and obtaining permission before hand. This can be done by saying “Mumkin sura, min fadlak?” (May i take your picture please?).